Category Archives: recipes

Toad in the Hole

Toad in the hole is a very traditional English dish. A quick explanation if you haven’t come across it before – it is sausages baked into Yorkshire pudding batter and yes, I know it’s confusing that it’s called pudding. Yorkshire pudding is a baked batter that’s similar to popovers. It is often served with gravy. I ate Toad in the Hole growing up as it was a regular feature of our school dinners but it wasn’t something that appeared often on the menu at home, and I’m not sure if I have ever made it myself.

As you may have noticed, I haven’t had much opportunity to cook recently, but I was inspired by the Bluescreek sausages left over from our camping breakfast at the Flying J Farm and I had a friend coming over for dinner. It’s a simple dish, so I had all the ingredients and I liked the fact that I could make this traditional British food using my local Ohio eggs, milk, mustard and meat.

Ingredients:
1 tbsp cooking oil
12 good quality pork sausages
3 tbsp mustard or 4 tbsp ketchup
2 small eggs
100g all purpose flour
100ml milk
salt and pepper
3tbsp bacon fat

Preheat the oven to 425ºF

Heat the oil in the frying pan over a medium heat and fry the sausages until browned all over. Drain on a paper towel and then smear generously with ketchup or mustard.

Put the eggs in a mixing bowl and whisk until thick. Add a little flour and a little milk and keep alternating until you have added all of them. Season, then mix in 75ml water and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Take a roasting pan that can accommodate all of the sausages in a single layer. Put the bacon fat in the pan and put it in the oven until the fat is smoking.

Pour in the batter all in one go, and immediately arrange the sausages into it. Put the dish into the center of the oven and bake for about 30 minutes until it is puffed, crispy and a rich golden brown.

[Recipe is taken from the appropriately named ‘A Wolf in the Kitchen‘ by Lindsey Bareham]

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Yellow Squash Mustard Pickles

Many people, myself included fell in love with the yellow squash mustard pickles from last weekend’s Flying J dinner.  Zach and Mary Briggs are Slow Food Columbus members who lovingly made and generously donated the pickles for the event even though they weren’t able to attend the dinner themselves.

They gave me permission to share the recipe on Hungrywoolf, so for those of you who want to make some of your own to hoard for the winter or for anyone who has more squash than they can eat, here it is.

The recipe was adapted from allrecipes.com

1/4 c salt
2 1/2 lb young squash cut (they say rounds)
2 small onions sliced thin

2 1/4 c white sugar
2 c white vinegar
2 t mustard seed
1 t ground turmeric
1 t celery seed

In a large pan (one you will cook in), combine squash, onions, and salt. Mix well and let stand for 2 hours to release liquids.

When time is almost up, combine sugar, vinegar, mustard seed, turmeric, and celery salt in a saucepan over medium/high heat. Bring to a boil.

Drain the salty liquid from the squash and onion mixture. Pour the spice brine over the vegetables, and let stand for 2 more hours.

Bring to a boil once again. Ladle into 1 pint sterile jars, filling with the liquid to within 1/4 inch of the top. Make sure rim is clean. Seal with lids and rings. Process for 10 minutes in a simmering water bath to seal completely.

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Filed under canning, recipes, slow food

Apricot Tart

One of the reasons that I signed up for the Wayward Seed Farm fruit CSA this year was the lure of Eschleman Fruit Farm apricots. Wayward Seed partner with Eschelman’s for the fruit CSA and so far we have had strawberries, apricots, cherries and blueberries.

I love fresh apricots, both visually and to eat. The first week, I just ate them as snacks, but by the third week of this fruit bounty I was looking for ideas. Luckily the New York Times came to my rescue, but before I started preserving apricots there was something I wanted to try. In December I wrote about Rowley Leigh’s apple and almond tart. I had in my head that it would be just as good if I substituted apricots for the apples.

I followed the recipe except:
– I substituted apricots for the russet apples
– I made my own ground almonds in the food processor
– I substituted sliced almonds for the pine nuts.
– I realized that I didn’t have any icing (powdered) sugar so I omitted dusting the tart at the end.

Most fruits get sweeter when you bake them but the apricots were more tart. It worked out well, the tartness of the apricots were a nice contrast to the sweetness of the crust and almond paste but the powdered sugar might have made it a little sweeter. I made the tart in the morning and we ate it at room temperature late in the afternoon.

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Rødgrød

When I was a child I spent many summer afternoons picking fruit with my parents. We were lucky to have some wonderful pick-your-own farms within reach and would come home with baskets full of strawberries and raspberries as well as loganberries, tayberries and redcurrants. The best strawberries I have ever had were eaten crouched in a field. Much of the fruit we picked would be preserved as jam but we always made at least one batch of Rødgrød.

Rødgrød is an impossible to pronounce Danish dessert made with redcurrants and raspberries. It can be made as a thick pudding, but at our house it is the consistency of soup and is served chilled with lots of cream. It is a refreshing summer dessert that tastes of jam and I still haven’t grown out of drawing patterns with my cream.

When I saw that Comb’s Fresh Herbs had redcurrants at the North Market farmer’s market I knew that I wanted to make Rødgrød.

For 4-6 servings, put 1 lb of redcurrants and 1/2lb raspberries or 3/4lb of each into a pan with 6 tablespoons of water. It is not necessary to remove the redcurrant stems. Cook over gentle heat until they are mushy and the juice is extracted and then press the mixture through a sieve or muslin.

Measure the juice (you will need to know how many fluid ounces you have) and return it to the pan, except for two tablespoons. Add six to eight ounces of sugar to the juice in the pan and stir over a gentle heat until the sugar has dissolved. Then increase the heat.

Blend arrowroot with the two tablespoons of reserved juice  (using one teaspoon of arrowroot for every seven fluid ounces of juice). In Columbus you can find arrowroot at Whole Foods. Gradually stir in the arrowroot mixture, bring the juice to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes until it thickens. Pour into bowls or into serving dish and chill. Cover the surface with saran wrap or sprinkle a fine layer of sugar on top to prevent a skin forming as it cools.

Serve with cream and feel free to play with your food.



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Gremo-pesto-dalia

This hybrid dish is part gremolata (garlic, parsley, lemon zest), part pesto (basil, olive oil) and part skordalia (garlic, almonds, olive oil), green and vibrant, garlicky but with a freshness added by the lemon. It has a multitude of uses. The full list of ingredients was:

garlic scapes
toasted sliced almonds
parsley
basil
olive oil
salt
lemon juice
lemon zest

Pulse the ingredients in the food processor until you have your desired consistency. You could also use cloves of garlic instead of scapes.

We originally made it to go with steak and it’s brightness and refreshing tang was a good compliment to an otherwise rich meal. Left overs have been reincarnated variously with the beet salad above (a homage to the skordalia and beet salad at Rigsby’s) and as an addition a yoghurt based dip. It would also be good with grilled lamb or chicken, or tossed with pasta.

Nigel Slater had some wonderful garden recipes in his column last weekend, including a basil sauce for lamb, and I am intrigued by the basil cookies.

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Spanakopita

Spanakopita is a Greek phyllo dough pastry traditionally filled with spinach and feta cheese. It can either be made as a large pie or, as I prefer, triangles. I started with a recipe from the Food Network, but over the course of several batches refined both my technique and the recipe.

1 package frozen phyllo dough (read the instructions for thawing time)
8oz spinach
4 large scallions, sliced
Generous handful of parsley
1 lb Swiss chard
8oz feta cheese
1 egg
1 stick butter
1/2 cup olive olive + 1 tablespoon
squeeze of lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg

I bought the feta from the Farmers Market, the spinach, scallions and eggs were from the Greener Grocer. The Swiss chard was part of my Wayward Seed Farm CSA which started this week. I used the chard because I didn’t have enough spinach, but actually thought that it gave the flavor an added dimension, so next time I would use it deliberately.

Preheat the oven to 375ºF.

Wash and dry the greens. Saute them in a large pan, with 1/2 tablespoon olive oil. I used my wok as there is plenty of space to keep moving them around. It is best to add the toughest parts first. I started with the chard stems, then added the chard leaves and finally the baby spinach. You should cook them until completely wilted, and then transfer them to a strainer. Squeeze out as much moisture as you can. In the same pan, with 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil,  saute the scallions until soft.

Put the greens, scallions and parsley in a food processor with salt, pepper, a squeeze lemon juice and a little freshly ground nutmeg. Pulse until the mixture is finely chopped. Put in in the fridge to cool. While the are chilling you can crumble the feta, and melt the butter with 1/2 cup of olive oil.

Add the crumbled feta and the egg to the green mixture, stir until combined  and your filling is complete. I changed the ratio of spinach to cheese from the original recipe. I think 3:1 has a lot more flavor than 4:1.

Take the phyllo out of the package and spread it out on your work surface. It is important to keep it from drying out, so any phyllo that you are not using should be kept covered by wax paper or saran wrap and a damp towel. Cut the dough in half lengthwise so that you have long strips. Brush the top strip with the butter and olive oil mixture (I love my silicon pastry brush) and then place some filling in the corner. Fold the corner over so that you have an off center triangle point at one end. Keep folding this triangle over until you get to the end of the strip. It’s like folding a flag. Brush the next sheet with the butter mixture and fold your triangle in a second layer of dough. I found that the second layer made a big difference to the appearance and durability.

Place on a baking sheet (I lined mine with a silicon mat or parchment), and brush the top with butter. Keep making triangles until you have run out of filling or dough. I made over 20 with half a packet of dough.

Bake them for approximately 25 minutes until they are golden brown. They are best eaten when still warm from the oven. Serve as an appetizer or snack. If you want to make them a little bit ahead of time, and then bake them just before your guests arrive make sure you keep them covered so that they don’t dry out and crack. You can also freeze the unbaked pastries.

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Filed under North Market, recipes, Vegetarian

Mango Sorbet

Last time we visited Luc’s Asian Market we couldn’t resist buying a case of mangoes. We wanted to make more mango sorbet after a successful trial run last week.

The recipe (from Epicurious) couldn’t be simpler.

4 large ripe mangoes or 6 smaller champagne mangoes (about 3.5 lbs total)
1 cup simple syrup
3 tablespoons lime juice (or more to taste).

The simple syrup, made of equal quantities of sugar and water, should be made ahead so it is cold when you add it to the mango. It will keep for at least a week in the fridge and any leftover syrup is a good excuse to make some cocktails.

Using a sharp knife divide each mango into three sections by slicing down alongside the pit. Scoop the flesh out of each of the two side pieces using a spoon and put it straight into a food processor or blender. With a smaller knife peel the skin off the pit section by inserting the knife just under the skin and tracing all the way around. Trim any useable flesh from around the pit and add it to the blender.

At this point you may not be able to resist gnawing on the pit. That is one of the perks of being the one making the sorbet, but make sure you have dental floss in the house first. That part can be stringy.

When you have the flesh of all four mangoes in the food processor or blender add the syrup and lime juice and puree until smooth. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and follow the maker’s instructions. I have the ice cream maker attachment for my kitchen aid mixer (a very nice birthday present) and have been very happy with it. The Epicurious recipe uses the mango shells as serving vessels but we stored our sorbet in a tupperware container. The sorbet freezes very hard so you will definitely want to let it sit out for a while before serving.

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